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It's no secret that it's one of my life dreams to live out of an old van and road trip, surf, explore and photograph the journey. (Do I know how to surf? Not well, no. But this is one step in the right direction, right? ) Though the water was a solid 55 degrees and I just got the feeling back in my fingers and toes, I thoroughly loved every minuteof this trip. The ocean--even during less than ideal conditions--is just plain good for my soul. We returned yesterday wind burned, sandy haired and perfectly content in our exhaustion. A large part of me wishes I could have spent the holiday with my family, but the wave therapy and chance to paddle with a pod of wild dolphins isn't something to complain about either.

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